Pat Falvey

Pat Falvey is an Irish high-altitude mountaineer, Polar explorer, expedition leader, author, corporate and motivational speaker. On 27 May 1996, he became the second Irish climber and the first from the Republic of Ireland to reach the summit of Mount Everest. He was the first person in the world to complete the Seven Summits twice by reaching the summit of Mount Everest from both the Tibetan (1996) and Nepalese sides (2003). He was expedition leader of the team that saw Dr Clare O’Leary become the first Irish woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest (2003).

Born and raised on the north side of Cork city, Ireland, Falvey started mountain climbing in his late twenties, having worked as a builder and property developer from his late teens onwards. Following the economic recession of the mid-1980s in Ireland, he lost most of his wealth and discovered mountaineering in his late 20s.

Following his introduction to hill walking and climbing on the McGillycuddy Reeks in County Kerry, Falvey devoted himself to training to become a high-altitude mountaineer. He trained initially with the Cork Mountaineering Club, at Tiglin in County Wicklow and became a member of Kerry Mountain Rescue, climbing very frequently in Ireland, Scotland, France and the Himalaya. In June 1994, Falvey climbed Mount McKinley (Denali), reaching the first summit in his Seven Summits attempt. This was followed by Kilimanjaro (January 1995); Mount Everest via the Northeast Ridge (June 1995); Aconcagua (December 1995); Elbrus (March 1996); Mount Vinson (January 1997); Kosciusko (February 1997). He was the first Irish man (and the 32nd person in the world) to complete the Seven Summits. Falvey was the expedition leader of the first Irish team to reach the summit of Cho Oyu without oxygen, on 20 May 1998. He reached the summit of Ama Dablam on 3 November 1999. In 2003, he was the expedition leader of the first Irish team to reach the summit of Mount Everest via the South-Southeast Ridge, with team members Ger McDonnell and Mick Murphy reaching the summit. On 18 May 2004, Falvey reached the summit of Everest via the South-Southeast Ridge, and led the expedition that saw the first Irish woman, Dr Clare O’Leary, reach the top of the world. Falvey and O’Leary completed the Seven Summits on 16 December 2005, when Falvey became the first person in the world to complete the Seven Summits twice by climbing Mount Everest from both the Tibetan and Nepalese sides.

In 2006, Falvey led a group of 32 across the South Georgia Traverse in honour of Polar explorers Sir Ernest Shackleton and Kerryman Tom Crean, in the Beyond Endurance Antarctic expedition. He led the first Irish traverse of Greenland in 2006. In January 2008, he led a four-person Irish expedition to the South Pole. In April 2009, Falvey and O’Leary did a ‘symbolic’ walk to the North Pole, completing the final four-day trek to the Pole.

Falvey, Pat, with Collins, Dan (1997). Reach for the Sky, Cork, Ireland, The Collins Press. ISBN 1898256322.

Falvey, Pat, (2007). A Journey to Adventure: Stories I never thought I’d tell, Cork, Ireland, The Collins Press. ISBN 9781905172535.

Falvey, Pat, with Gyalje Sherpa, Pemba (2013). The Summit: How Triumph Turned To Tragedy On K2’s Deadliest Days, Kerry and Dublin, Ireland, Beyond Endurance Publishing with The O’Brien Press. ISBN 978184717-6431.

Falvey, Pat, (2016). You Have The Power: Explore The Mindset You Need To Realise Your Dreams, Kerry, Ireland, Beyond Endurance Publishing. ISBN 978099271-2525.

Against the Sky: The Incredible Story of an Irish Expedition to climb Mount Everest, a Kevin Hughes Film. Executive producer Pat Falvey.

The Summit, an Image Now Films and Pat Falvey Irish and Worldwide Productions production which tells the story of the 2008 climbing season on K2 when eleven climbers died on one of the world’s most dangerous mountains. Produced by Image Now Films. Executive producer Pat Falvey.

My Private Everest, a three-part documentary for television on the life of adventurer and Polar explorer, Pat Falvey, Athena Media, Dublin. Ireland.

"Beyond Endurance", a four part TV mini series.