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Andy Earl (climber)
British rock climber

Andy Earl (climber)

The basics

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Intro
British rock climber
Work field
Gender
Male
The details (from wikipedia)

Biography

Andy Earl is a professional climber and coach from the north-east of England. He is widely considered to be one of the best climbers in the country. He excels at both traditional climbing and bouldering having ascended both E9 and Font8b+ graded problems all over Europe. He is based in Newcastle, England where he runs a bouldering wall (Climb Newcastle). He was British bouldering champion from 2003-2006 and was on the team for five years.
In 2004 he won the silver medal in bouldering at the European Championships in Birmingham. In 2007 he won the fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup, in RĂ©union.

Early life

Andy is the son of John Earl, a long term contributor to the Northumberland climbing scene. John took Andy out climbing at the age of four. Later in his childhood Andy would go sport climbing in the Yorkshire Dales at weekends but turned to bouldering in Northumberland as it was more convenient.

Coaching

After getting his degree in sport science from Sunderland University he toyed with the idea of becoming a physical education but was put off by stories of badly behaved kids, so instead lent his talents to coaching the junior climbing team where he learnt the skills needed to coach the best, which he then did when he got the job as coach of the senior bouldering team, which has shown significant improvements under his leadership but is held back by the lack of sponsorship. Although Andy himself does not have this problem as he is sponsored by Scarpa, E9, Camp and Rockworks.

Notable ascents

Bouldering:

  • Monk Life, 8B+, Northumberland. (Second ascent)
  • Blood Sport, 8B, Shaftoe Crags, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • The Bitch, 8A+, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • Desperado, 8A+, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • Cypher, 8B, UK.
  • High Fidelity, 8B, UK.
  • The Ace, 8B, UK.
  • Careless Torque, 8A, UK.

Traditional climbing:

  • The Dark Side, E9, Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • The Prow, E9, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • The Young, E8, Northumberland. (First ascent)
  • Endless Flight Direct, E8, Northumberland. (First ascent)

Climb Newcastle

Climb Newcastle, opened in 2008, is one of the most extensive indoor climbing centres in the world and features an overhanging cave joining onto a training room complete with many fingerboards, a campus board, a couple of Swiss balls and written instructions on loads of exercises to get you strong. It has a massive pool complete with a large roof and two other overhanging walls. Alongside are two other corridors with technical slabs and a kids room. The centre is overseen by worldwide stars Chris Graham, Adam Watson, Andy Earl himself and many more.

The contents of this page are sourced from Wikipedia article. The contents are available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license.
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