Jakob Schubert
Quick Facts
Biography
Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is a World Champion (2012) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014) in Lead climbing, and his highest redpointed grade on rock is 9b.
Biography
He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).
In 2012, he won the World Championships in Paris.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Discipline | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
Bouldering | 60 | 65 | 19 | 3 | 2 | - | 25 | 23 | ||
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 59 | - | - | - |
Combined | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 4 | 2 |
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Discipline | 2004 Youth B | 2005 Youth B | 2006 Youth A | 2007 Youth A | 2008 Juniors | 2009 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Adult
Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 2 |
Climbing European Championships
Discipline | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 6 | 3 | 7 | 6 | 3 |
Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 4 | - |
Speed | - | - | 35 | 27 | 31 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2004 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2005 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2006 | Youth A | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
Total | 3 | 1 | 3 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
2009 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2010 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
2011 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
2012 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
2013 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
2014 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
2015 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
Total | 14 | 14 | 12 | 40 |
Bouldering
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | 1 | 1 | ||
2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2013 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
Total | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
9b (5.15b):
- Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011)
9a+ (5.15a):
- Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)
9a (5.14d):
- Kein Licht Kein Schatten - Ötztal (AUT) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent
- Direct open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 3, 2013
- Fuck the System - Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013
- Analogica Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013
- Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012
- Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012
- Martin Krpan - Misja Pec (SVN) - November 21, 2011
- Hades - Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008
- Underground - Massone, Arco (ITA) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
Onsighted routes
8c (5.14b):
- Aitzol - Margalef (ESP) - April 23, 2011