Hristo Prodanov
Quick Facts
Biography
Hristo Prodanov (Bulgarian: Христо Проданов) (February 24, 1943 - April 21, 1984) was a Bulgarian mountaineer. He was the first Bulgarian to climb Mount Everest. He did this through the more difficult west side and without oxygen and alone. He is the first to climb Everest in April, when the weather conditions are too harsh for an expedition. He died in a storm during the descent.
Prodanov was still a student when he became involved in mountaineering. He began work as a metallurgical engineer in Kremikovtzi AD in 1976.
Prodanov had his first 7000 m ascent on August 6, 1967 when he climbed Lenin Peak. He had previously climbed several peaks in the Alps.
His major successes were related to Hindu Kush (1976) and Lhotse. In 1981, he was the first Bulgarian to climb Lhotse without the use of supplementary oxygen.
His niece, Mariana Prodanova Maslarova, attempted to climb Mt. Everest (without the use of supplemental oxygen) on the 20-year anniversary of her uncle's death. Tragically, Maslarova died of exposure at 8,700 meters. She died 20 years and 30 days after her uncle.
Climbs
8000m ascents
- Lhotse (8516m) - April 30, 1981, solo, without oxygen
- Everest (8848m) - April 20, 1984, solo, without oxygen
7000m ascents
- Lenin Peak (7134m) - August 2, 1975, July 28, 1982, August 6, 1982, July 13, 1983, August 2, 1983
- Communism Peak, today known as Ismail Samani Peak (7495m) - July 29, 1980, July 24, 1983
- Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m) - July 28, 1979, July 31, 1979, August 8, 1982, July 29, 1983
- Noshaq (7492m) - July 30, 1976
Alps
- North face of Matterhorn (4471m) - September 21–26, 1974, together with Trifon Djambazov
- North face of Grand Jorasses on the Walker Spur (4208m) - July 30 August 1, 1967, together with Atanas Kovandzhiev
- Petit Dru (3733m), Bonatti route - July 16–18, 1967; "Route of Guides" - September 3–8, 1977
- Mont Blanc (4807m), Freney Pillar - July 15–16, 1969
Caucasus
- Pillar of Ushba - July 25–28, 1970
- Traverse in Shkhelda (4320m) - July 24-August 1, 1973
Awards
Prodanov received several awards, including:
- No. 1 Bulgarian Mountaineer for the 20th century.
- "Hero of People's Republic of Bulgaria" (1984 - posthumously)
- "Georgi Dimitrov" order (1981; 1984 - posthumously)
- "People's Republic of Bulgaria", second class (1977)