Garrett Madison

Garrett Madison (born November 3, 1978) is an American mountaineer and is one of the world's top high altitude mountaineering guides, having personally guided 44 clients to the summit of Mt Everest between the years 2006-2016, more than any other American. Garrett began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and his company, Madison Mountaineering, specializes in leading expedition climbs on Mount Everest and other high altitude peaks, operates on the highest peaks on all seven continents (7 summits), and also provides domestic training programs and summit climbs in Washington State. On May 19–20, 2011, he reached the summit of Mt Everest on his fourth successful attempt as expedition leader and guide for Alpine Ascents International, and reached the summit of Lhotse (4th highest mountain in the world) only 21 hours later as guide to climber Tom Halliday. Also on the expedition was guide Michael Horst who made both summits as well in under a 24-hour period, a few days earlier. This historic achievement marks the first time in history that both peaks Mt Everest and Lhotse were summited together in less than 24 hours, and Madison repeated the "double header" feat again in 2013, the only person to do so twice. In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many "7 Summits" expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson Massif, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years. Most recently, Garrett Madison's company, Madison Mountaineering, successfully brought a virtual reality camera to the summit of Mt. Everest. This Capturing Everest will be released by Time Inc and Sports Illustrated and is expected to be released early 2017.

Madison was leading a team of climbers up Mt Everest when the April 2015 Nepal earthquake triggered an avalanche, resulting in the deadliest day in Everest's history. The team's doctor, Eve Girawong, was one of the American fatalities.

Outside Online's story of the deadly September 2012 avalanche on Manaslu is supported with photos and notes of Madison's mountain rescue and recovery efforts.

An interview and story of Madison's 2012 Mt. Everest summit was published in the October 2012 issue of Outside magazine.

The MTN Meister Podcast featured an interview with Garrett Madison in 2014 detailing, among other things, his ascent of K2 that was the mountain's first ever guided climb.

Outside Magazine featured Madison on the cover of their 2015 Adventure Issue.

People Magazine and The Today Show both highlighted Garrett's experience during the April 2015 Nepal earthquake while covering the tragedy.

In July 2015, ESPN featured Garrett Madison in a video about Mt Everest.

7 ascents (summits) of Mt Everest

1 ascent of K2 on July 27, 2014

2 ascents of Lhotse

185 ascents of Mount Rainier

14 expeditions to Aconcagua

11 expeditions to Vinson Massif

6 ascents of Mont Blanc

6 expeditions to Mexico's Volcanoes

5 expeditions to Pico de Orizaba

3 expeditions to Denali

7 expeditions to Mount Kilimanjaro

3 expeditions to Ama Dablam

1 ascent of Burke Khang, Nepal—First Ever Ascent

1 ascent of the Matterhorn

1 expedition to Makalu

1 expedition to Manaslu

4 expeditions to Ecuador's Volcanoes

1 expedition to Peru's Cordillera Blanca

1 expedition to Cho Oyu