Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 30 years of experiences as a professional climber, members of Iran sport climbing National Team for many years, as route setter in many national, continental and world cups and championships, and head coach of Iran Sport Climbing National Team for 6 years. He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.
Biography
Artimes was elected as one of the five members among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league’s statute.Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club’s representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France. As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes. Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continentalroute setters. He also became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019.
Positions
Here are some positions he has held:
- 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2009 – Tehran League founding member
- 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
Coaching
Coaching certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
- Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1
Coaching experience
Gym | Time |
---|
Emam Ali University | 2003-2006 |
Army | 2005-2006 |
Davoudi | 2005-2008 |
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym | 2005-current |
ArmenianClimbing GymSipan | 2012-current |
Payam Climbing Gym | 2015-current |
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym | 2016-2018 |
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach | 2014-current |
Route setting
Route Setting certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
- ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
- IFSC Junior – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
Route setting experiences
- Chief Route Setter
- 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
- 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup international Competition
- 2013 – Route Setter–Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
- 2015 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
- 2016 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship Iran
- 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
- 2017 – Route Setter – Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
- 2017 – Route Setter – Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
- 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC World university Championships Slovakia
- 2018 – Route Setter – Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
- 2018 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Championship Totori, Japan
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
- 2019 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
- 2019 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
Judging
Judging certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge
Iran National Team memberships
- Junior National Team
- National Team
- 2003
- 2004 – China, Asian Championship
- 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
- 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
- 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
- 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup
Ranks and medals
IFSC Climbing Worldcup
| 2009 | 2007 |
---|
Bouldering | 29 |
Lead | 26 |
UIAA Asian Championships
Fajr championships
National championships
Tehran Province championships
| 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 |
---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Lead | | | | | | | | | | | | 2 | |
Tehran Province League
Groups Cup
Solo
- Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
- Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent
Climbing
Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:
Year | Name | Grade |
---|
2001 | Speed(FA) | 7c |
2002 | Ashiane(FA) | 8a+ |
2003 | Iran(FA) | 7c+ |
2004 | Iran Swiss | 8a+ |
2005 | Khashol(FA) | 7c |
2006 | Khoke chamosh(FA) | 7c+ |
2007 | Ashianedoe(FA) | 8b |
2009 | Solo(FA) | 8b |
2010 | Tehran Guy(FA) | 8a |
2011 | Father & Son(FA) | 7c+ |
2018 | Marmolak | 8b |
2018 | Bargrizan | 8b+ |
2018 | Push your must(FA) | 7c+/8a |
2018 | Pishadul(FA) | 7c+ |
2019 | Vampire(FA) | 8b+ |
2019 | Colony(FA) | 8b+ |
2020 | Sourkhpoost(Indian) | 8a |
2020 | Gladiator | 8c |
2020 | Merry Jain (FA) | 8a+,8b |
Roc Trips
- Petzl 2008
- Petzl 2009
- Petzl 2014
Route
Here are some of the routes he bolted:
Year | Name | Grade |
---|
2006 | Khashol | 7c |
2006 | Pichol | project |
2007 | Khoke chamosh | 7c+ |
2009 | O+ | 7c |
2008 | Solo | 8b |
2008 | Toxic | project |
2009 | Emperorproject | ? |
2010 | Tehran guys | 8a |
2011 | Gladiator Project | 8c |
2011 | Father and Son | 8a+ |
2013 | Vampire | 8b+ |
2014 | Ati | 7b+ |
2018 | Colony | 8b+ |
2018 | Pishadul | 7c+ |
2019 | Surkhpoost (Indian) | 8a |
2020 | Gladiator | 8c |