Matty Hong

Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.

Early life and education

Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers. He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle.

After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder, Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.

Climbing career

Sport climbing

In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.

In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.

In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder. In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+).

In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in Ceuse.

Competition climbing

Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category. He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.

Notable ascents

Redpoint

• 5.15b (9b)
  • Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018

• 5.15a (9a+)
  • Realization/Biographie, Ceuse. France, 2023.
  • Flex Luthor, Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, 2021.
  • La Rambla, Siurana, Spain, 2017
  • Papichulo, Oliana, Spain, 2017
  • Joe Mama, Oliana, Spain, 2017

First ascent

• 5.14d (9a)
  • Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011
  • Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014
  • Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
• 5.14c (8c+)
  • La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015
  • Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
  • Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016

Onsight

• 5.13a (7c+)
  • Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
• 5.14b (8c)
  • Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya

Bouldering

• V15 (8C)
  • Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012
  • Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020

Competition climbing

• Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO

Filmography

• Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12